In the fall of 2022, I had the unique experience of speaking at international climbing festivals in 3 countries of Europe. You can read about my events in Italy (in the Dolomites) and in Switzerland (the Italian-speaking part, in the Alps) in my 2 previous blogs. Today I’d like to share my adventures in Greece.
The small city of Leonidio, where the climbing festival took place, is in the Peloponnese region of Greece, in the Municipality of South Kynouria, about a 4-hour drive west of Athens. Behind it rise the “Red Rocks of Leonidio” —
After Covid, getting back together for a real, face-to-face festival was wonderful, especially among the beautiful Kokkino Vrachos (Red Rocks) of Leonidio. We are back!
My friends / climbing partners & I stayed in a delightful boutique hotel, a former private mansion, the Archontiko Chioti
Stone walls, flowers everywhere, unimaginably sumptuous breakfasts, and friendly, helpful staff made our stay memorable in so many ways! So many details stand out, like the rocks in the indoor walls or our rooms, the delicious liqueur made there from geranium leaves, the lovely sitting areas… I don’t usually get so excited by lodgings, but the Chioti was exceptional and I look forward to going back someday.
The whole region is studded with beautiful golden limestone rocks, cliffs, bluffs, mountains…a climber’s paradise. Here are some glimpses of our adventure —
So many beautiful places to climb, within a short drive from Leonidio! Always a view of the green-blue Aegean Sea, always the golden glow of sun on the rocks…
And sometimes, we just got to hang out with friends. This plateia (plaza) is filled with the local men playing chess & just talking…and me & some climbing friends.
Climbing & speaking in Leonidio was an experience I’ll always cherish…for the new friends, like Thomi…
who organized and shuffled and made things happen…
And Aris, and Kirios Kavas and his amazing store and restaurant…
and Panagiota, and all those who made it an outstanding experience…
Adio, Ellada!…Au revoir, Greece — until the next time.
When my train chugged out of the Dolomites (see previous blog) heading for Switzerland, I had no idea what awaited me. I would be speaking at several places, but beyond that, I knew only the name of my host, Giulia.
She put me up in her home and arranged my speaking gigs as well as my climbing expeditions into the valleys of the Alps of Ticino, the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland. She and her family live in Bignasco, a tiny village in a narrow, deep valley. For the next 10 days, I’d get to know the people, the valleys, the rocks (for climbing)…and the goats.
I spoke several times, to big groups and small, and got to be ‘godmother’ at a regional youth climbing competition (I handed out the awards).
Most of the high Alpine valleys have dams (for electricity, which doesn’t exist in all of the valleys), like this one, the Verzasca Dam.
The day we went there, they were setting up for an international climbing competition, and climbers were testing the routes. I just happened to be there when Sasha DiGiulian, renowned American climber, popped up over the top!
Once is not going to be enough; I’ll be back someday, to both the Dolomites and to Ticino. I owe it to myself. And I hope you get to experience them someday, too.
In the fall of 2022, I had the unique experience of speaking at international climbing festivals in 3 countries of Europe.
As I planned the trip, I knew the 3 locations would offer very different experiences. But my imagination fell far short! Here, I’ll just share a glimpse of each one, so you can share in the some of the joy of the trip.
Oltre le Vette (Beyond the Peaks) was the first festival. I had always wanted to see the Dolomites, the mountain region in northeastern Italy famous for its impressive vistas as well as for its sports — skiing, mountaineering, hiking and climbing. As a teacher of Italian many decades ago, I taught the geography of the country, but my own experience of it was very limited. This year, I finally remedied some more of that.
I arrived in the town of Belluno in the evening, after about 20 hours of travel, and the next morning I got to check off one of my lifelong dreams — they took me climbing in the Dolomites!
Our first stop:
The first wall we climbed, just one pitch (up & down):
The wall we climbed was on this rock formation, called le Cinque Torri (5 Towers), for the crenelation-like formations on the top:
The day after I spoke at the Festival, we drove up to one of the high passes and started climbing this:
It was a multi-pitch, meaning that instead of going up & then back down, we went up a pitch (one rope length, about 200ft), then up again, and again…. Total of 6 pitches.
At the top, a rugged little Madonna was waiting for us. Under her feet, in a tiny drawer, we found the register, where climbers can sign in for posterity. Proof that you made it!
And from the top, incredible panoramas in 360 degrees, including this view of Cortina d’Ampezzo, former site of the winter Olympics:
General view of one little corner of the Dolomite region. It’s so extensive, it’d take a lifetime to climb all the routes!
Then we had to get back down! That turned out to be harder & more strenuous than the climbing! But we made it by (a very late) dinner-time. 🙂
I hated to leave the Dolomites, but more speaking events were waiting for me in Switzerland. Stay tuned for the next installment….
Encouragement is important. At any age. I always kind of knew that, the way we ‘know’ everything we assume we know. But it took becoming an athlete for me to realize just how deeply that need runs through all of us, no matter how old we are. And along with the encouragement, that comes from others, we need a healthy dose of stubbornness in order to succeed.
This week, I was the Keynote Speaker at a conference in San Diego called The Presentation Summit (for people who do lots of presentations for work); the title of my talk was “How to Succeed at Anything”.
Sounds…ambitious! Smacks of hubris, even. But as a relatively new athlete (I started long-distance running at 55, and rock climbing at 59), I’ve learned things that I probably never would have learned otherwise, about how essential those two elements are. In order to accomplish what we want to, we need to be stubborn — or tenacious — and we need just a bit of encouragement (modern pundits call it positive feedback).
That resonates with a lot of folks who dream of accomplishing something — as evidenced by the standing ovation in San Diego after I spoke! Success comes from accomplishing your dream — like Thomas Edison (inventor of the light bulb, who tried and failed 10,000 times), or Tommy Caldwell (c.f. the movie “The Dawn Wall”), who worked on the Dawn Wall for 7 years.
Tenacity, a bit of encouragement…and there’s one more element that’s an essential key for success. Stay tuned for more on that. . . .
First, I’m off to Europe, to speak on that topic and sign books at climbing festivals in Italy, Switzerland and Greece. Lots to get ready..!
I’m sitting at my supper table, eating a tasty, almost-vegetarian home-cooked meal, and reading a book. A big book. One that’s making me think.
And I’m thinking that this isn’t what I’d really like to be reading. I’d love to be deep into a novel, something that takes place in a location I’d love to learn more about, with a bit of romance, maybe a bit of mystery, some great characterization….
But no. I’m actually ploughing through three books (at each meal I choose one), and all of them are non-fiction. What I would have called ‘heavy’ reading, when I was in school.
One is about rats. Yep, rats. The rodent. In New York City. Actually it’s a fascinating exploration of the animal, the city, and our psyche. I would never have picked it up if my son hadn’t pushed it across the table at me and said I needed to read it. He was right.
One is about money. Actually, about economics. So not me! Money is a necessary evil, something we need but don’t want to need. How did money start? Did we always have it? (No.) What is its role in our society? When Alex told me about that one, I replied, “Who cares? Give me a good novel!” But like the rat book, it’s turning out to be fascinating. It’s making me think. And think. Not necessarily what I’d like to do over supper, but still, I’m going places, mentally, where I’d never go otherwise. Which is always a good thing.
The third one that I’m shuffling over supper-times is about climbing. I always enjoy those. Chris’ book (see below for book info) is part technical, part philosophy, and really delves into the head part of climbing, which is the part of climbing that stymies me the most.
But still, with a good meal, a novel just….
Well, I haven’t read a novel in a long, long time, and I’m not missing it. I do look forward to getting back to that; but the books that were recommended to me by my kids are taking me places I never would have thought of going myself. Isn’t that the definition of adventure?
At my daughter’s suggestion, I’m reading poetry. When I was in high school, Robert Frost was one of my favorite writers. He still is, I’ve learned, but it took being pushed into it to re-discover that. Thanks, Stasia!
So my recommendation to you: Ask your friends what they’re reading. Ask your kids. Ask your kids’ friends. It just might open doors for you that you’d never even realized were closed.
What I’m having fun reading right now (but wouldn’t have been, if left to my own devices):
• Rats, by Robert Sullivan. Bloomsbury Publishing, 2004.
• Sacred Economics, by Charles Eisenstein. Evolver Editions, North Atlantic Books, 2011.
• Why We Climb, by Chris Noble. Falcon Publishers, 2017.
I ran into an old friend a few weeks ago, for the first time in many years. While we chatted, catching up, he mentioned a painting that hangs in his living room. I painted it, back in another lifetime, and gave it to him as a wedding present in 1979.
That time of my life was turbulent, stressful and completely overwhelming. I had no recollection either of the painting or the wedding. Not his fault; memories from that time in my life were eclipsed by my new marriage, new home, moving to a new part of the country, a new job, new family… then a new country. The whole decade (or more) is a blur.
Since I keep an archive of my work, but didn’t have that one, he sent me a photo of it. Here it is:
If you’ve been to Yosemite, you recognize Half Dome, one of the national park’s iconic rocks. That year, 1979, my husband took me there for the first time. It was one of my his favorite places.
Clearly, it made an indelible impression on me then, and still does, each time I drive into Yosemite Valley. My husband passed away in 2004, and just a few years later I began learning to climb rocks. Not quite like my son Alex; no one will ever give me awards for the kind of climbing I do! But the first year that I began going outdoors to climb real rocks (as opposed to just climbing in a gym), I climbed Half Dome with my son. It terrified me, exhilarated me — and it took me until this high (the third pitch) to muster the courage to turn around and check out the view:
But once you’ve hung on the side of a wall of those dimensions, fingered each hand-hold (of which there aren’t many, on that smooth slab of rock!), dug in with your toes to keep from succumbing to gravity, it becomes something much more. The day we climbed it, Alex and I, was an education. I learned to dig deep to find resources I didn’t know I had, and to ignore the fear that clamored for my attention. Well, maybe not “learned,” exactly, but at least, started to learn. First steps. Baby steps.
When I did that painting for my friend, I didn’t know Half Dome. It was just a pretty rock that looms over Yosemite Valley — as it is, I suppose, for most people. Worthy of the brush strokes I granted it, impressive for sure, but just… pretty.
We are so much more than we often give ourselves credit for! So much more than we allow ourselves to be!
So here’s your rallying cry:
Feel alive! — Go visit your mother, Nature! She knows what you need, like any loving mother. Turn off the screens, the devices, and go visit, even if it’s just a little green park in your neighborhood. Nature holds the key to your well-being, wherever you seek Her out.
Let Her take care of you. You deserve it. And She’ll teach you things about yourself that you need to learn.
b : something (such as an event, activity, or session) characterized by great length or concentrated effort — Merriam Webster Dictionary
When I was young, a marathon was a mythical thing. Something other people did. Running a marathon ranked right up there with climbing Everest, or flying to the moon.
Now, I’ve done 4 marathons, and I’ve climbed El Capitan several times, which is sort of like an Everest of California. But ‘marathon’ has another meaning besides the running event: any activity “characterized by great concentrated effort.”
Last week, I did one of those. Again.
I packed the front passenger’s seat of my little Honda Fit with food — sandwiches, snacks, bananas, nuts, some dried fruit. And this time, a cupcake & some cookies, a reward for my feat. I filled 3 travel mugs with various coffees or teas that would keep me going. I placed my favorite CDs (old car!) where they’d be accessible to me while driving. I set my GPS, just in case I got distracted or dozy or wasn’t paying attention to my route. And I drove from Sacramento to my son’s home in Las Vegas. About 564 miles. About 10 or 11 hours non-stop. Like driving from NYC to Detroit, or Indianapolis, but in 2 straight lines.
I stop only for gas / bathroom. Everything I need is in the car.
This wasn’t my first driving marathon, nor will it be the last. When my daughter settled in Portland, Oregon, years ago, I began learning to do trips like this (580 miles from Sacramento, where I live, straight north on I-5). Over the years, I refined the contents of my ‘car kitchen’, to better satisfy the various hungers or thirsts or just boredom cravings that happen while driving that far.
I could fly, of course; but then I couldn’t bring the box of books I always have for one kid or the other, or the plants (for my daughter), several pairs of shoes (we hike, we climb, we walk, we bike, etc, and older feet require more options). I wouldn’t have an assortment of outerwear & helmets for our various activities. I couldn’t take my bike, which I use in Portland, or all my climbing gear that I use outside of Vegas.
My brother lives in southern California, about 480 miles straight south on I-5. Less distance than to the kids’, but far more traffic once I cross the Tehachapi Mountains and reach the southland!
So I’m the geographic family hub.
I could, of course, forget the plants, the gear, the shoes, the bike & helmet — which would make it a very different visit — but there’s another reason I don’t just fly.
I love to know. To understand. To experience.
Barstow. Borax. Boron. The Mojave Desert. Tehachapi (the town, not the mountains). Great distances. My own limits. An airplane skims it all; you get there fast but experience nothing.
You can’t understand California’s Central Valley without driving it. Stopping in it. Talking with its people. (I talk with everybody!)
The Mojave Desert is a mythical thing, like a marathon. But not to me any more. I’ve become familiar with its flora & fauna — like the millions of jackrabbits that sleep on the warm roads all night, dashing in all directions in sudden headlights! I know its climate intimately. Each time I drive across it, my hands are numb by the time I reach Barstow, from gripping the wheel to hold my little car in its lane despite the wind slapping it hard, left or right. Fierce, howling wind, almost every time. “Desert” means many different things, and I’ve experienced a lot of them.
The Tehachapi Mountains are the southern end of the north-south cordillera of the Sierra Nevada; one must drive up from the mostly-sea-level Central Valley to about 4,000 feet and back down, to reach southern California. But the town of Tehachapi sits to the east, in those foothills between the Central Valley and the Mojave, up above 4,000 feet. I don’t think I’ve ever driven through it in friendly weather. The last few times (never in winter) were a gauntlet of driven snow, wheel-gripping wind, sleet, black sodden clouds down to the ground, no visibility. Not the highlight of the trip.
I’ve seen where old airliners go to die. The sight of hundreds of them parked in what I assume is an airplane cemetery, as the road winds through the eastern foothills past the town of Mojave, is as bizarre as it gets.
But not nearly as bizarre as this sign, which indicates a city about 10 miles off Hwy 58 that was planned, decades ago, but never got built:
I know vaguely that borax has something to do with the bleach we use to do our laundry. (Never studied chemistry.) Now I know first-hand the vast, empty, god-forsaken place it comes from.
For decades, as I drove north-south in California between its two distinct worlds (SoCal & NorCal), I passed signs along I-5 for Arvin – Edison. Now I know the foothills where they each nestle, and what grows there. Where the winter is fierce and snowy, and the spring is soft, velvety green despite its proximity to the vast Mojave Desert.
I’’m not a desert person; its aridity does bad things to various parts of my body. I suffer physically for being there, and my mind, my whole being craves the green I knew as a child. But knowledge and understanding often come from suffering. The vast, high deserts of southern California and southern Nevada are amazing teachers. I look forward to my next drive across their unique classroom.
And now, I have even more reason to drive to Vegas — my first granddaughter!
When I was in grammar school (we called it that because we learned grammar in every year of school back then), we never had to go to school on February 22. We all knew it was George Washington’s birthday. We all celebrated it. He was the first elected president of an amazing democratic experiment; it was worth celebrating.
And we never went to school on February 16, because it was Abraham Lincoln’s birthday. Everyone knew this.
Then, someone had the bright idea to no longer celebrate their birthdays. Instead we’d celebrate on some nebulous, vague date that would give people a long, work-free weekend in a dreary month. Unlike in Sacramento, where February is beautiful, blossoming springtime, it’s the most awful, wintry month in temperate climates like the northeast. So I guess that change sounded like a good idea at the time.
The results, of course, have been predictable: No one knows the birth dates of our most famous presidents anymore.
Today I saw a clip online about how confused people are across the country — some states call it President’s Day (celebrating only one unnamed president), some Presidents’ Day (more than one), some celebrate it in February, some in December, some not at all, etc etc…. No one knows anymore why it’s a holiday, or when. All because a long weekend sounded like a good idea.
I believe in honoring a person, especially a revered, famous person, on the day they were born. No other day or date has that meaning for the person.
A long weekend is nice, too. But let’s not pretend it’s in honor of someone who was born weeks before, or later. It’s a simple sign of selfishness. We don’t want to have to get up for work on Monday. Let’s acknowledge that for what it is.
If I ever become president, and the country decides to honor me, I hope they do it on my birthday. And don’t forget to mention my name.
For more than a quarter of a century, I spoke French almost exclusively — all day long with all my students at the college (I taught by immersion & used only French), then back home with my kids, with whom I’d never used English. With no time to go out and be with friends (being a mostly-single parent, professor, business owner, etc), my life happened only in French, all day, every day. For years.
And then my kids grew up and moved away, and I retired. Suddenly, the few interactions I had each day — the handyman, the bagger at the supermarket, the clerk in the Post Office — were in English.
And now there’s Covid, and I have practically no interactions at all. In any language.
Culture shock. Like when you move to another country and everything’s suddenly different — including how you express yourself. It just doesn’t feel right anymore.
Covid has certainly produced its own type of culture shock. Habits that have always been firmly, societally ingrained have become foreign. It no longer feels right to shake someone’s hand. To hug anyone. To speak face to face, unmasked — especially in English.
They say that retirement can be one of the biggest stressors in an adult’s life. One of the biggest changes. Maybe. I’m sure that a pandemic ranks right up there, too — along with changing which language you use with your kids. Your friends. Your students.
Maybe someday they’ll learn that, aside from the well-documented benefits to the brain, being multi-lingual makes you more able to handle the unknowns of a pandemic with aplomb. I hope so. That would be a nice gift to have given my kids.
I never knew my grandparents could speak English. They never did, when the families got together. Nor did I ever know a white-haired person who spoke English without a thick foreign accent. In New York City after World War II, they were all from ‘the old country’.
But after the interminable War ended, no one in the US wanted to speak — or wanted their kids to speak — anything but English, the language of victory, of peace. Of success. So I could never talk with any of my grandparents, other than to say (in Polish) “Please pass the butter” or “It’s cold outside!”
To me as a kid, ‘Grandmother’ or ‘Grandfather’ were just words. Those old people didn’t talk to me, and they lived far away — no Interstates back then, so going from NYC to eastern Pennsylvania was a massive, difficult trip. Their vague, distant figures meant nothing real to me. They were just the dark-clad old people who populated the background of our family get-togethers. They had special names — Babci and Dziadziu in Polish — but other than that, were not special to me in any way.
Now, I’m about to become a Babci.
How does one learn any new skill? Normally, by repetition. Practice. Hours spent on the piano bench or at the basketball court. So I imagine most people learn to be grandparents by interacting with their own grandparents for many years. But I couldn’t interact with mine. The language barrier was complete.
So a brand-new learning experience awaits! On-the-job training, as it were. One involving cuddling, and cooing, and smiling (and crying, I’m sure), and lots of learning. And more importantly, lots of making up for lost opportunities.